Activated Silk™ L1 Biofinishing System

Anya Hidmarch X Evolved By Nature  |  Return to Nature Collection

A new beginning for leather finishing

  • Uses Zero PFAS
  • More Natural Feeling
  • Carbon Reducing
  • Higher Performance
  • 75% Biobased after removal of solvents

A natural material, enhanced by nature

Leather is a natural material. Naturally enduring, breathable and beautiful. As leather evolved, petrochemicals found their way into the process to punctuate those qualities. While leather needed innovation, it turns out it never needed petrochemicals. It actually performs better without them. We have introduced a naturally derived biotechnology that finishes leather for unprecedented performance and durability. It also makes leather finishing closer to sustainable than it has ever been and truly part of the circular economy.

A system & a service

Activated Silk™ L1 is a seamless solution designed to grow your leather business while replacing the most harmful petrochemicals in the finishing process. It’s compatible with a full range Nappa leather, including aniline, semi aniline and fully pigmented.


Top Coat

  • Uses Zero PFAS
  • No Added Cross-Linkers Required
  • Made Without PU

Base Coat

  • Uses Zero PFAS
  • No Added Cross-Linkers Required
  • Reduced PU
  • Biodegradable


Our included auxiliaries are designed to achieve any look and feel from matte to glossy, from waxy to oily, perfect for any consumer needs.


Creative Tech Support

We have master Italian technicians that will use our system to create beautiful articles for tanneries, with all of the performance requirements.

System Development

We provide updated auxiliaries as system grows.

Marketing Support

We partner with tanneries to create high value communications backed with strategic media placements around your leather articles.

A Novel Composite

The Activated Silk™ L1 biofinishing system is a novel concept consisting of top coat, base coat and auxiliaries.

A force of nature

Activated Silk™ L1 raises the performance of your leather and outperforms existing petrochemical finishing.

Flex Durability

Activated Silk™ L1 raises the performance of your leather and outperforms existing petrochemical finishing.

Colorfast Durability

Activated Silk™ L1 raises the performance of your leather and outperforms existing petrochemical finishing.

CFR Wet Veslic

Water Resistance

Activated Silk™ L1 raises the performance of your leather and outperforms existing petrochemical finishing.

Stain Resistance

0 Days

  • Mustard
  • Water
  • Mud
  • Ketchup
  • Wine
  • French Dressing
  • Corn Oil
  • Coffee

10 Days

  • Mustard
  • Water
  • Mud
  • Ketchup
  • Wine
  • French Dressing
  • Corn Oil
  • Coffee

Note: Finished leather was tested using the AATCC 130 and ISO 14419-2010 test methods: AATCC 130: Soil Release Oily; ISO 14419-2010: Oil Resistance, Hydrocarbon Resistance Test.

Unbelievably Breathable

Activated Silk™ L1 outperformed the polymers standard in vapor permeability by 165% when tested on two pigmented articles by Teknochim.

The beginning of the end for petrochemicals

Activated Silk™ L1 replaces PFAS, cross-linkers and other harmful polymers.

Polyurethane based finishing has set a performance standard for the leather products we use and love. Unfortunately, over time, that PU made its way through the ecosystem and into our oceans, foods and bodies. That’s why we’re developing a finishing system for the world’s first petrochemical-free leather. Activated Silk™ L1 biofinish is made from naturally derived Activated Silk™ biotechnology which greatly reduces the need for hazardous chemicals. Eliminating PFAS and added cross-linkers and reducing PU improves working conditions for tannery workers. After processing, our top coat is absent of hazardous chemicals.*

*Finished top coat shows absence of PFAS, cross-linkers and PU as demonstrated in subsequent data tests.

Carbon Reducing

Activated Silk™ L1:
Polymer reduction + Energy reduction = CO2 reduction

Activated Silk™ L1
Top Coat

82% Reduction in CO2*

Activated Silk™ L1
Full System

53-66% Reduction in CO2*

Switching to Activated Silk™ L1

2.15-4.7 Metric Tons Reduction in CO2**

**Per 1 mil finished sq ft, depending on application

*Numbers are based on average energy consumption rates in Italy. Numbers may vary per location but reductions are significant.
Varies based on application method – reduction comes from the innovative top coat formulation with less solids and big energy reduction.

Uses Zero PFAS

Polyfluoroalkyl substances are a set of man-made forever chemicals that can take 1000 of years to biodegrade. That means they end up in the atmosphere, water systems and eventually our bodies where they can cause great harm. That’s why Activated Silk™ L1 uses ZERO of these toxic chemicals.

Zero Cross- linkers needed

FTIR spectra of Activated Silk™ L1 and cross-linker

All in service of the planet

  • Uses Zero PFAS
  • No added Cross-linkers Required
  • Zero PU in the Top Coat
  • Reduced PU in the Base Coat
  • 75% Biobased after removal of solvents

Sustainability can be a lofty concept that is often hard to measure, which has left a lot of room for interpretation and shades of green. Our approach is to focus on the aspects that can do the most good for the planet right now and two generations from now. Like replacing harmful chemicals with renewably sourced ingredients that yield biodegradable end products that contribute to a circular economy and employing humans in safe, equitable ways. All while trying to reduce the carbon footprint for not just ourselves, but for the entire industry. Sustainability is a big job, but Activated Silk™ L1 is a big step in the right direction.

Activated Silk™ L1 Qualified Claims

Activated Silk™ Biotechnology Qualified Claims

  • Circular economy Activated Silk™ biotechnology contributes to a circular economy.
  • Upcycled Activated Silk™ biotechnology is upcycled.
  • Cruelty-Free Activated Silk™ biotechnology is cruelty-free.
  • Sustainable* *Activated Silk™ biotechnology contributes to 8 of 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals
  • Renewably sourced Activated Silk™ biotechnology is renewably sourced and made with renewable energy.

Development Partners

Leather Working Group Activated Silk™ L1 is a flexible system that enables different ways of partnering with us. We’re working closely with members of the Leather Working Group and are already engaged with many of the luxury tanneries in the Santa Croce area as well as major fashion houses and brands around the globe.

It’s only the beginning

L1 shows us what is possible when we embrace naturally-derived ingredients. The next generation will unlock even more breakthroughs in sustainable leather finishing. One day we hope to bring you the world’s first sustainable, plastic free, carbon reductive leather finishing system. By adopting Activating Silk™ L1 today, you’re leading the industry towards a better tomorrow.

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